Going Out, Taiwanese style

There are really three kinds of of drinking/going out places. Taiwanese drinking-restaurants, high end cocktail bars and a handful of disco-bar/nightclub places.

Taiwanese people, if and when they drink, generally do this with food. A place like this isn’t hard to find. Normally there’s a neon beer logo outside and you will see big round tables with decently-sized beer bottles and large dishes surrounded by laughing and chatting families and workmates.
These places are rowdy and convivial, so going there alone is not recommended. Since you’re eating and drinking you might spend more than planned, on average a dish is 70NT+ ($2.20) and a bottle of beer is 100NT+ ($3.20).

For a more westernized experience, around the 101 and other affluent districts there are plenty of very luxurious cocktail bars and coffee shops which have all the drinks and atmosphere of an equivalent bar in New York or London. At a place like this, drinks start from about 300NT+ (10$) but they can easily cost more than 600NT ($20).

A good place to have a more sophisticated evening is Huashan Culture Park, between Shandao Temple station and Zhongxiao xinsheng station. It is a renovated Japanese factory complex that not only has a couple of bars, it also has an excellent pizza restaurant (alley cats) and numerous exhibition spaces and venues. A great way to spend a Saturday evening with a special someone.

Danshui/Tamsui(淡水)

Getting there
Tamsui is the last stop on the red MRT line (north), and the station is located right next to the river.

Danshui/Tamsui(淡水) West
The river is the main attraction in Tamsui and inevtiably you will find yourself walking along it. But it is so different if you go East or West, that it feels almost like there are two rivers.
If you go West(Walk straight out of the MRT station) You'll find the bustling, noisy, modern river. There’s a promenade with a lot of seafood-themed street food, and more surprising than tasty: enormous ice-creams. Parallel to the promenade is a busy tourist street that takes you to local attractions like the old British consulate/dutch fort and fishing harbour.

Danshui/Tamsui(淡水) East
If you head East, (go left out of the MRT station and walk along the river towards Taipei) you'll find the ancient, peaceful river. Along this part you can see rickety fishing huts on stilts and crumbling houses in the forests, though the first place of interest is a red-brick Japanese factory. As you continue, you'll find yourself going along a cycle path surrounded by majestic mangrove forests. Here you'll quickly forget the city and it's troubles. It's a great place for a picnic too.

Xinbeitou (新北投站) Public Hot Springs

Getting there
Walk out of the MRT station, cross the road and walk along the park on your right, up the hill. Just past the Japanese hot spring museum are the public baths (also on your right).

Xinbeitou (新北投站) Public Hot Springs
There are 3 small pools, filled with senior citizens and tourists as well as the spring water, which reaches about 43 degrees. The atmosphere here is lively and friendly so it's more fun than relaxing. But, It's really cheap, and costs only 40NT ($1.30) to get in. The best time to go is weekdays, during the day as there won't be many people. You have to bring your own towel, swimming costume and cap (if you want to put your head underwater, or have long hair).

Rules, rules, rules
Every two hours the Xinbeitou public baths close and everyone has to leave while they do a bit of cleaning for 20 minutes. Before you pay and go in, check the signs next to the entrance to make sure they won’t throw you out after 15 minutes.
There is also an over-zealous, but kind hearted guard who pounces on anyone who breaks the endless rules here. You are not allowed to sit in the pool with only your legs. You have to go in full body. Apparently this has something to do with circulation because you might pass out or get dizzy if you only dip your feet.

Lin family Mansion & Garden (林本源園邸)

Getting there
Take the blue MRT line to Fuzhong station(府中站) and take exit 1. Go behind exit 1 and walk left down the road, (you'll see exit 2 on the other side of the road). At the big junction, go through the market gate, down Fuzhong Road(府中路）. Take the second right at Wenyuan street （文員街） and walk a few metres before you will see the wall of the mansion on your left, walk along the wall until you reach the entrance.

Lin family Mansion(林本源園邸)
The Lin Family Mansion is an oasis of beauty and tranquility in the hustle and bustle of the modern city. Built in the 19th century by a merchant family, this stately home is surrounded by Alice in Wonderland gardens, ponds and small bridges. There are tall palm trees and lawns and you will quickly forget that Taipei is literally a stone's throw away.

At sunset it's particularly beautiful and you can easily spend over an hour wandering the twisty paths and exploring the different buildings and pavillions. You might even spot some peacocks.
And on top of all this, it's free to get in!!!!

Pingxi and the Pingxi line (平溪線)

Getting there
From Taipei Main Station and catch a train to Ruifang, if you have an easycard you can pay with that. At Ruifang, get off and go to the ticket office. Ask for a day ticket on the pingxi line. This means you can get on and off where, and as often as you want on the Pingxi line.
From Taipei, the trip takes an hour to an hour and a half, and the train from Taipei will be packed at the weekend, so leave early.

The Pingxi Line (平溪線)
The Pingxi line is a small railway which takes you to the heart of the mountains. Perhaps most famous for its sky-lantern festival, 2 weeks after Chinese New Year, this area is worth a visit all year round. A great day trip from Taipei, the train takes you past high peaks and through picturesque villages where you can stop and have a snack in the little shops, or take walks in the surrounding mountains.

Shifen(十分)
Shifen is one of the the first of these villagesm and a mere 25 minute walk from the train station is a large waterfall. To get there just follow the signs from the train station. It's quite impressive, but unfortuntaley they make you pay to see it.

Pingxi & Sky lanterns(平溪/天燈)
Pingxi is where the sky-lantern festival takes place, but you can light your own whenever you want. Just go into one of the shops on the train tracks and they will ask what colour you want (don’t worry, you can just point) and they give you some paint and a brush. When you’re ready you’ll be taken outside and they will light it and tell you when to let go. It’s wonderful to watch it disappear into the evening sky.

Jingtong(菁桐)
The final stop on the line is Jingtong, a lovely village built around a flowing river. Here you can wander around the sloping streets or sit and relax, enjoying a cup of local tea. We went to a teashop in a whimsically decorated room facing the river. You’ll find it easily because there’s a piano on the first floor. As Jingtong is the final stop on the line, finding a seat on the train will be much easier!

Prawn (shrimp) Fishing

I had heard about prawn fishing before I came to Taipei, and was keen to try it out. Although not located in the centre, there are at least two areas where it is possible. If you're not a vegetarian, then this is the best way to spend a Sunday afternoon in Taipei.
Fishing for prawns is relaxing, satisfying, exciting, and totally Taiwanese.

Getting there
The easiest way to get to the prawn fishing place is to catch the MRT to Shilin station, take exit one and walk straight down to the main road and catch bus 255 at the bus stops on the right to Waishuangxi Bridge (外雙溪橋). The prawn-fishing place is right next to this stop (it's a long building with a big entrance).
you can also catch the 小18, 小19，市民小巴 from Jiantian MRT station as well as the 棕13 from Dazhi MRT station.

Introduction
When you arrive, don't be too surprised but they don't speak English and they aren’t very helpful, but it’s pretty easy to figure out what you do. You pay 500NT ($18) and get a fishing rod, knife, hook and bait (some liver and dried-shrimps). This is for 2 hours of fun! You pay at the end, so if you go over time, they'll charge you then. Also, if you lose the hook or finish your bait, just ask for me for free.

Step 1: Getting started
Choose a pool and get some chairs and have a seat. You will notice that other people have nets where they put the prawns they have caught. Where we went, they were hanging on the wall, so get a net and tie it to the hooks near the pool and drop it in.

Step 2: Baiting
Although different people say different things, it was clear that the prawns prefer the liver, and me and my friends found out that a combination of dried-shrimp and liver is the best.
If you have sausage fingers this can be fiddly: cut the liver pretty small (no bigger than the size of the largest dried-shrimp) and hook it firmly on to the hook. Then gently put the line and hook into the water.

Step 3: Catching
When you feel a bite, don’t do anything, you should feel a few tugs, and then just gently pull the line with shrimp out of the water. If you pull too hard, or react too quickly, the shrimp might get away. When you have him, don’t be scared of his weird claw-arms (it really doesn’t hurt if he pinches), and unhook his mouth. Then put him in the net that you got earlier, to await his doom.

Step 4: Waiting
The amount of prawns you catch is not so dependent on your skill as a shrimper, but rather on how many of them there are in the pool. You will notice that the owner will periodically restock the pool’s supply by tipping a large crate of live prawns into the water. So sit back, relax and enjoy a beer or two (you can get them from the fridge, and they’ll charge you later) while you gradually catch your next meal.

Step 5: Preparation
When you’re done, hand in your gear in exchange for some skewers and wasabi-soy sauce. You’ll be directed to the grills and a huge pile of salt. This next bit is definitely the hardest part, and its better just get it over with.
Part one is to skewer the (still struggling) catch of the day. You do this by holding it firmly in your left hand by the back, and shoving (for lack of a better word) the skewer under the tail through its abdomen (because I have a better word) and into its head. If you get the head, you will most likely kill it quickly, and it will stop struggling.
Part two is to salt them up. Put them on the salt mountain, turn them around a few times so they’re nicely salted and while you’re doing the others, just leave them in the salt.
Part three is to fire up them grills (you might need assistance) once they’re salted and cook them. The warm light of the fire will calm your nerves and as they turn a delicious red, you will forget what you just did to your dinner.
They should take about 5 minutes to cook, turning them around occasionally.

Step 6: Eating
Head over to the tables with your freshly caught supper, dip them in the sauce and enjoy! The place I went to didn’t offer any other dishes or meals, except instant noodles, so it might be worth bringing your own accompaniments.

Xindian - bike rental

Getting there
Take the red line to the final stop south, xindian. Exit the station on the left hand side, cross to the river, and take a right, there is a bike rental place if you walk 3 minutes along the river, back towards the city. You can also ask where to go at the information desk in the MRT station.

Bike rental
To rent a bike you will need a passport or id card as a deposit. It costs about 60NT ($2) an hour. Helmets cost a little extra. You have to return the bikes by a certain time in the evening. I would definitely recommend asking for a bike lock. That means you can leave your bikes unattended and explore places on foot on your trip.

Along the river
From Xindian the bike route heads towards the city go towards the city, and it was a fun ride, past trees, under bridges, through puddles. There was also a little nature reserve, which we couldn't stop at because we didn't have bike locks. There are also many nice views of the river and the city too.

Treasure hill artist village
To get here it's better to cross to the other side of the river (you'll find a bridge for cycles) and then cross back when you see the artist village on the other side. This route is much more scenic and you avoid roads.

This is an “artist village” funded by the Taipei government and resided in by various local and international artists. It’s great to have a look around and stop to have a tea before you head back on your sweaty ride to Xindian. The people there are very friendly and funny, and it also seems to be off the tourist radar so it’s nice and peaceful.

Wulai (烏來) Town

Getting there
Take the Green line to Xindian MRT station (the last stop south), leave through the only exit and find the bus stop on the right hand side of the station, on Beitou Road. Take bus 849 to the last stop. At the weekend the bus will be very crowded, and you probably won't get a seat. It's also a twisty, windy road so you might find the bus trip a little uncomfortable, or extremely fun!

Wulai(烏來) Town
Wulai is a pretty tourist town with a river running through the middle and high bridges to cross it. As you would expect from a tourist town there are many little restaurants and shops selling local products and food. I would recommend the Zhutong Fan (竹筒飯), rice with beans cooked in a bamboo tube.

About a thirty minute walk from the bus stop there’s a waterfall (follow the signs and the road that goes right through town) and a cable car which takes you above it. If you feel more adventurous there are walks and hikes going into the mountains. Wulai also has some free hotsprings by the river, but they are crowded and relatively small. I would recommend stopping somewhere like this either on the way there, or on the way back.

Wulai Hot Springs

Getting there
Take bus 849 to 隧道口 from Wulai or Xindian MRT. The bus stops right in front of the spa.

Sun Moon Bright Spa(日月光溫泉)

On the bus route to Wulai there are many hotel-spas where you can get off, soak and relax. It's a unique Taiwanese experience and I highly recommend it. The one I regularly visited was Sun Moon Bright Spa(日月光溫泉), a Japanese style place. There are about 5 different pools of different temperatures, a waterfall, complimentary tea and towels and best of all, stunning views of the valley.

There is also a restaurant which smells very nice and looks very expensive. At 390NT ($13) The entrance cost is a little high when you compare it to the free public spa in Wulai or the 40NT ($1.20) public baths in Xinbeitou. But the tranquility and quality are definitely worth paying for, especially if you have a hangover!

Maokong Gondola (貓空纜車)

Getting there
Take the brown MRT line to the last stop Taipei zoo. Leave the station and follow the signs along the main road to the Gondola.

Maokong Gondola

This has nothing to do with boats and is in fact a cable car. For 80NT (one way) you get to travel out of Taipei with great views of the city, flying above fertile forests and into fresh mountain air. The trip takes 20 minutes, and its worth doing for the views alone. To make a day out of it, you can stop at Zhinan Temple (指南宮站) en route to the top. If you like temples it's definitely worth a visit, and even if you don't, it's a great place for taking photos and views of the city.

Arriving at the top of the Maokong Gondola
At the weekend there will be a lot of tourists, so exit the station and take a left. If you walk about 20 minutes along the road there will be almost no one and you will come to the last tea shop. Take a seat in the quiet garden and enjoy what is probably the world’s most expensive tea. But look around, you'll realise you’re paying for the scenery - and it's completely worth it.

Drinking tea at the top of the Maoking Gondola
Apart from the one above, there are many other tea shops along the road. They make you buy a box of tea for about 500NT ($17) and in addition you pay them for water and use of a kettle (80NT/$2.20 per person). If you ask (and you should) they will show you how to make the tea properly using all the different bits and pieces they supply you with.

Chiang Kai Shek Shilin residence (士林官邸)

Getting there
Take the red MRT line to Shilin Station and leave out of Exit 2, turn left down the bendy Lane 505 of Zhongshan North Road, and follow it straight until you get to the big Zhongshan North road, cross and continue along Fulin road. You'll see the residence grounds on your right, walk a little further to find the entrance.

Chiang Kai Shek Shilin residence
Originally the heavily militarised residence was actually a flower/botanical centre and there are many installations and nature inspired sculptures, flower gardens and open spaces to walk around and explore.

Wandering through the gardens of Taiwan’s ex-dictator admiring the flowers, make you proud to be from a democratic country. But what’s makes this place really fun to visit, are the abandoned, semi-collapsed buildings which were inhabited (presumably )by CKS's jump-suit clad henchmen. In order to explore them, leave the main paths and head to the more overgrown areas. You will see buildings and ruins poking out of the overgrown vegetation.

On a more serious note, it is interesting to see how the man lived. His military-green painted mansion and his chapel both give a much more insightful view of the man who ruled Taiwan than his propagandistic memorial in the centre of town.

Yuanshan(圓山)/ Grand Hotel (大飯店)

Getting there

Take the red MRT Jiantan station and take exit 2. Walk across the little park to Zhongshan North road, cross and turn right down it(go south). After 10-15 minutes, on your left you will see a little park and path leading up the hillside, to the Grand Hotel.

The Grand Hotel and Yuanshan

If you came from the south, you will probably have seen it from the MRT train the impressive, massive, spectacular grand hotel. This was built in the 50s to wow foreign dignitaries who had nowhere to stay, and to this day (apparently) it is the biggest Chinese classical building. Anyway once you’ve walked around a bit and taken in as much as you can of this architectural masterpiece, go behind the building and follow the signs up the mountain.

There is a viewing deck with spectacular views over to the 101 and if you explore more and reach the top you will be rewarded with more views and a little garden. There are many paths, but its small, so you won't get lost. 

The mountain itself is full of little shrines and temples where people sing karaoke and the Asiatic melodies provide a haunting background and atmosphere to the bizarreness of people going to a temple to sing karaoke.